Thursday, February 26, 2009

Themes of Fashion

BASIC STYLES IN FASHION:

1) Classical
2) Medieval

CLASSICAL STYLE

This includes garments which were the historical Greek-Roman costumes such as Chlamys and Toga. These include a lot of gathers, pleats and folds. A lot of fabric is used. these garments are usually very flowing.
I will show you examples of Classical Historical garments.



Duncan Dancers (1900-1914), uploaded by Gatochy

These dancers pose in the classical grecian costume worn in different ways.


Grecian Dress 1914. Designer - Madeleine Vionnet, Paris

She was famous for her bias-cut drapery. The influences of her style can be seen in the later work of Madame Gres and John Galliano.


Roman Emperor, Tiberius in an ancient Toga (14 - 37 AD)

CLASSICAL REVIVAL


Roman - inspired dress by designer Elie Saab, Couture Collection Fall 2007.


Scarlet Red dress worn by Anne Hathaway . A little Edwardian Poiret, a little 1960s Liz Taylor Cleopatra Roman Glamour.


Greek goddess look combined with the Billowy wedding dress with asymmetrical shoulders. Designed by Vera Wang, Spring 2009 collection.


The red carpet pictures of these girls which gives the viewers a Grecian Vibe.
1. Angelina Jolie's BCBG Max Azria gown
2. January Jones' Andrew Gn dress
3. Anne Hathaway
4. America Ferrera


A model wears a dress with a portrait of US President Barack Obama.
Italian designer Gattinoni's Spring - Summer 2009 High-end fashion show, unveiled in Rome.

MEDIEVAL STYLE

This includes garments that have long-fitted sleeves, high necklines, stiff tailoring. They also include Victorian fashion and the Minimalism theme that existed during the 1990s. Fitted garments such as corsets were also very common among women.

Victorian sleek, slender and sheer high-waisted dresses (Regency Era) of 1800 - 1830.
Victorian fashion is a term used only for United Kingdom and its colonies.

Victorian Era (1901 - 1910), the wealthy women wore elaborate laced dresses with high necklines and they were customized. Frizzy hair and French canes were also a prominent feature of a women's look during that time.


Renaissance wedding gown of 1800s, made of Mink.


Scottish Edwardian travelling suit in white and navy pinstripes. Worn witha straw hat with a velvet trim.



Edwardian Gown of 1909, with great detailing.

MEDIEVAL REVIVAL


Oscars Award Ceremony 2008 - from Red Carpet Style Review.


John Gallinano Spring 2009 collection


Emporio Armani Spring 2009 Collection

FOLKLORIC STYLE


Folkloric Casual Wear Fashion from Mongolia and Siberia

This outfit gives an Eastern European feel. It has rich embellishments and decorative prints.
The 2nd picture shows a warm wrap-up in chunky fair isle blanket cardigan paired with dark denims.


Folkloric garment from Syria by Fashion Designer, Hana Sadiq Iraqi

Folkloric styles are very popular in Arab countries and they are really expensive. Some of them look hot!

ETHNIC STYLE




A model shows an ethnic costume during Zhejiang costume culture festival in Hangzhou, capital of East China's Zhejiang province on Jan 13th, 2006.


From left: 2 from Just Cavalli, one from Pollini, 2 from Diane Von Furstenburg.
"Spring 2008 rumway Collection".

Roberto Cavalli eschewed his signature brand of vampy Italian sexiness for African-inspired patchwork mini dresses with intricate beading and fringe and print. Diane Von set bold tribal prints in safari shades with embroidery and beading.Pollini's collection (ethno-tribal theme) had a bold IKAT running motif in chiffon layers as trimmings on tops.

I have come to the end of my post. I hope i was successful in explaining the themes and styles of fashion.


Wednesday, February 18, 2009

DRAPED & TAILORED GARMENTS...

DRAPED GARMENTS

Draped garments include shawls, sari, cloaks, veils, sarongs, stolas, draped skirts and dresses, pareos, ponchos and the ancient loincloth.

1.SARI

A sari is a long strip of cloth typically from the India. it is an unstitched piece of cloth ranging from 5-9metres in length. it comes in a variety of colours, materials, prints and textures. it is generally draped around the waist but there are many different ways to drape a sari. it is usually worn over a petticoat (underskirt) and a blouse (short bodice).these days, they are embellished with mirrors and embroidery.

Indian Sari worn during 21st century

2.CLOAKS


A cloak acts as an overcoat. it is usually worn over any garment inside. is is a very loose garment. it protects from the cold, rain and wind. it is also worn as a fashionable outfit. They have a hood attached. They are also embellished with embroidery and prints and fur. they are fastened at the front down till the foot or they are fastened at the neck with strings. It is an ancient garment of many cultures such as roman, parisian, victorian. it was extensively worn by Roman Emperors.


A Parisian wearing the cloak in 1823


Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV wearing an embellished cloak in 1831

3.PONCHO

Ponchos were created to protect from rain and cold weather. it is a large piece of fabric with a hold in the centre for the head. it is sleeveless. They come in different colors, materials and prints and embroidery. Usually they are knitted or crocheted. They are traditional garments of Latin America.



A picture of the locals of Peru, South America wearing the traditional poncho. This photograph was taken on may 28th, 2008.

4.SARONG

A sarong is a piece of fabric tied around the waist. It is a traditional garment of Southeast Asia (Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia and Philippines). It is worn as a kilt by men and as a skirt by women. It is available in different colours and prints. it is generally delicate flowy fabrics. The most common prints are Batik and Floral.


Typically Malaysian Sarong manufactured by 'English Creations Craze' in 2008.

A sarong can be worn in different ways. I have attached pictures to show my point.







TAILORED GARMENTS

Tailored garments would include tunics, trousers (pantaloons, breeches, pants), socks, mittens and gloves.

1.TUNIC

A tunic is generally without sleeves. the length varies from short to medium to long. it is an ancient Green and Roman costume. Generally a tunic is held around the waist by a belt.


This short typical Greek Tunic tunic is perfect for either the market streets or under any Greek armor. It emulates the waves of the Aegean. 100% cotton.

2.TROUSERS

There were different types of trousers prevalent. Pantaloons, Breeches and pants. Trousers were started in Nothern Europe.

-Breeches

They were knee length trousers. they were a male's costume. At the hem, they were either buttoned or pulled by drawstrings.


This is a pair of classic riding breeches from 1950s. They are medium - weight wool, with polo pockets, zipper fly and 8 buttons on each leg closure. It is available at a great store in Boston called Beckwith's.


A native American wearing breeches in the 18th century

-Pantaloons

Pantaloons were worn by men. They were usually worn with waist coats.


A picture of Americans wearing pantaloons in 1893

3.SOCKS, GLOVES & MITTENS

Socks are usually worn on the human feet. Gloves and mittens are worn on the palms. All of these are work to protect from the cold, rain and wind.


Socks worn during the end of 17th century


Gloves (with fingers) worn during the beginning of the 17th century


Entomological mittens and hat designed by Adrian Bizilia.

CONCLUSION

I hope I discussed the types of garments (draped & tailored) well. I tried my best to attach the best pictures that I could get.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

6 FUNCTIONS OF DRESS IN SOCIAL CONTEXT...

1) Environmental Protection
2) Decoration
3) Gender Differenciation
4) Group Membership
5) Ceremonialism
6) Sexual Enhancement

Let me show you examples of each:

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

Clothes made specially for extreme cold, extreme heat or extreme rain climates fall under this category. For example:



Jacket for extreme rainy climate...


REI Shuksan jacket with eVent™ fabric provides ultimate comfort. It is used for extreme rainy climate and for camping & alpine touring. This eVent fabric allows sweat vapor to escape to the outside of the fabric easily, no matter how hard you work. It remains dry on the inside. Its completely waterproof and windproof upto 60 mph.

Available at www.Rei.com


Jacket for extreme cold climate...


This is an Alaskan jacket with high-quality down insulation which will keep you warm in any frost. It allows full range of motion. Its hood is trimmed with detachable natural raccoon fur
It has a high warm collar which is lined with Polartec. Its central two-side zip is covered with an inner warm flap and down Veclo vent. It has warm fleece cuffs. It is windproof too.

Available at www.baskcanada.com/Featured/down-wear/alaska.htm

Use:
Arctic expeditions, winter sports and urban use.

DECORATION

Clothes used for decoration maybe in the form of body art such as painting or tattooing. For example:



Body Painting


The model is Jessica White. This was done when the SI Swinsuit 2009 collection was being launched.
Available at www.sportsillustrated.cnn.com/2009_swimsuit/painting/jessica-white.html


Halloween Vampire Costume


Clothes are also used for costumes such as halloween, where people dress up to decorate themselves.

GENDER DIFFERENCIATION

During the pre-historic times, there was no difference in the clothes worn by men and women. their main purpose of clothing was to cover their bodies. But, clothes started differing from the middle ages during the medieval period. Examples to show differenciation of clothes:


Feminine Gown


This is a dress by Zuhair Murad. It is one of his Fall-Winter 2008-09 collection. This shows the feminine qualities in the dress such as use of net, embroidery, silhouette and the Corset fit.

To show a more historic example,


Vicrorian Era - Female Dress


The Bustle effect, gathers, and the veil shows the feminity.


Victorian Era - Male Attire


This is marked by the long jacket, buttoned-up shirt, the typical headgear, shoes and the trousers.

GROUP MEMBERSHIP

This refers to people who dress up to be a part of the group. They want to look like everybody around them. Exampes are:


Group of Boys


The picture above shows a group of Asian Boys having similar hairstyles. their dressing is also quite similar (Leather jacket).



2 girls walking on the streets of Taipei. They are dressed in a similar fashion with mini skirts and belts and loose t-shirts with a big bag.

CEREMONIALISM

This refers to dresses worn for specific occasions. Example:


Indian Wedding dress


This is marked by the typical lehenga (skirt), choli (top) and dupatta(a large piece of fabric wrapped around the body and over the head). All these are heavily embroidered. the use of colors red and orange is very common. This dress is by an Indian Fashion Designer, Sabyasachi Mukherjee's Bridal Collection.


Mongolian Bride


SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT

This refers to a person enhancing their sexual appeal by means of dressing. Example:



This sparkling red dress exposes the female body increasing her sex appeal. This is a dress by Viktor Viktoria.



This Lame Gold dress enhances the female body parts, increasing the sex appeal of the wearer. This dress is by Viktor Viktoria.

Available at www.viktorviktoriashop.com

I have explained the 6 social functions of dress with the help of examples for each.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Knitwear Collections 2008-09...

Knitwear is becoming really significant in the fashion industry these days. this is because these fabrics have ease, flexibility and comfort. A lot of unique and interesting designs and patterns can be created using knits. Patterns can also be achieved by using different colored yarns. In this way, it meets all the needs of today's consumers. Knits can be Heavy or light, depending on the purpose, situation and climate.

The designer whose collection was unique and creative was Lalla Wandavi. She specializes in Couture knitwear designs. Her collection is a must-see!!!

LALLA WANDAVI






I was also impressed by the knitwear collection (Winter 2008-09) of Tina Miyake, a Japanese fashion designer. The colors and styles that she has used are very innovative and stylish. Her collection can be viewed by clicking on the link below.

TINA MIYAKE